Fertile Button Quail Eggs for Hatching – Chinese Painted Quail & King Quail – High Hatch Rate, Live Delivery Guaranteed

£2.98£14.98

1st class post recommended for hatching purpose

Raising quail is easy, and they make an economical poultry addition to any household to provide home-raised eggs and meat or to support a small business. Here are the important numbers to remember while raising quail:

    • For days 1 to 14 of incubation, use 37.5°C (or higher) and 45% humidity while turning the eggs
    • For days 14 to 18 of incubation, 65% humidity while not turning the eggs
    • The eggs should hatch from day 16, if 18 days come come out, most likely they’re dead or not fully developed, can be tested by putting eggs in warm water
    • Provide a warm area of around 37.5°C  in the brooder for the first three weeks
    • Feed the chicks a high-protein gamebird food
    • By age four weeks, the chicks can be transferred to their adult quarters
    • Hens will start laying eggs around eight to nine weeks of age and continue doing so until around age two or three years
    • Roosters will reach butcher weight at 14 to 16 weeks of age
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Fertile Button Quail Eggs for Hatching – Chinese Painted Quail & King Quail – High Hatch Rate, Live Delivery Guaranteed

eggs can be collected from 98 stayton road, sm1 2pu, to avoid fertile damage by transport

Fertility rate over 90%, but please be aware the hatching success rate could be much lower, some customer may have 0% success,  most of the small incubators are not good enough to keep the correct temperature and unstable, also transport etc.

so we can’t guarantee your hatching success rate, please don’t ask for refund or return if you can’t have a good resulta

Eggs can’t be returned…

Special Note: Mostly of my customer having good hatching results, but some of them may fail, the main reason should be the temperature of the incubator, the temperature shown on incubator doesn’t mean it’s eggs temperature, better you test your incubator use few thermometer before put eggs in .

From my own experience, the right temperature is 37.5°C for eggs, incubator may need over 38.0°C or more to keep the eggs at the right temperature but this will be based on the incubator. and different area of the incubator may have different temperature.

*** mouse and rats can kill birds

All Fresh Eggs from same day or 1 day earlier

Each egg will be candled to make sure no crack.
 
The king quail (Synoicus chinensis), also known as the blue-breasted quailAsian blue quailChinese painted quail, or Chung-Chi, is a species of Old World quail in the family Phasianidae. This species is the smallest “true quail“, ranging in the wild from Southern China, South and south-eastern Asia to Oceania, up to South-eastern Australia with 9 different sub-species. A failed attempt was made to introduce this species to New Zealand by the Otago Acclimatisation Society in the late 1890s. It is quite common in aviculture worldwide, where it is sometimes misleadingly known as the “button quail“, which is the name of an only very distantly related family of birds, the buttonquails.
 
The male king quail comes in many colors, including blue, brown, silver, maroon, dark brown and almost black. They have orange feet which are hard and able to withstand a continuous life on the ground like many other game birds. The female is similar to the male but cannot come in shades of blue. They can live up to 13 years in captivity but only 3?6 on average[citation needed]. In the wild they may live only 1.5 years. The eggs of king quail are a light, creamy-brown colour and slightly pointed at the “top”; roughly ovular in shape.
 
Fertility rate should be 95% or more, may supply you extra eggs for grantee the rate

Why raise quail?

Unlike chickens, which require a considerable amount of space to keep, two dozen quail can be kept in three stacked cages that together take up no more space than a closet; even apartment dwellers can manage to produce their own fresh food or set up a small business.

In addition, quail are far more prolific egg-layers than chickens and reach butchering size in only a couple of months. A dozen laying hens will produce the equivalent of 3 chicken eggs every single day.

Tip 1: start with hatching eggs

Although live chicks can be purchased, it is far more economical when raising quail to purchase viable fertilized eggs and hatch them out. Once you have set up a quail colony, if you keep a few males you can produce your own fertilized eggs and hatch them out for raising quail in the future.

However, it is an excellent idea to introduce a new batch of purchased fertilized eggs now and again to avoid inbreeding in your colony. Inbred quail tend to be very unhealthy. They have low hatch rates and high morbidity rates.

It is very easy to hatch quail eggs out. Purchase a good, commercial incubator with an automatic turner equipped with quail egg rails. Start the incubator going at least two days before your eggs arrive so you can be sure you have it adjusted to the proper, stable temperature (100 degrees) and humidity (44%).

Some people mess around with home-built incubators and hand-turning eggs, but these approaches never work as well as a commercial incubator and hand-turning eggs is a lot of time-consuming work.

Tip 2: let your eggs sit for a few hours

When your eggs arrive, most people are tempted to pop them into the incubator right away. We have found you get far better hatching rates if you carefully place the eggs large end upwards and let them sit quietly for a few hours at room temperature to recover from the jostling and temperature changes that occur during transport.

Tip 3: set a reminder

With an automatic incubator, it is very easy to forget your quail are growing in there until you hear peeping. Suddenly, you realize they all hatched last night, and you haven?t set up the brooder yet; panic and haste should never be part of raising quail.

You?ll need to set a reminder for 15 days so you can put the incubator on hatch mode and get your brooder set up and stabilized. You?ll need to set another reminder for day 18 so you can watch them hatch out and then move them to the brooder.

Tip 4: buy some gravel paper

One of the common reasons for culling quail chicks while raising quail is they slip shortly after hatching and dislocate a hip (splayed legs). We have reduced our incidence of splayed legs to zero by lining the brooder and the incubator during hatching with gravel paper.

Gravel paper is sold in many pet supply stores; if you can?t find any, head over to the hardware store and buy some coarse sandpaper. Some people use grippy shelf-liner instead and report it works almost as well as gravel paper in preventing splayed legs.

Tip 5: don’t bother with candling

Although trying to candle quail eggs to see how they are doing is kind of fun, due to the coloration of the eggs it can be quite difficult to see what is going on inside. Also, every time you open and close the incubator and take eggs out for candling it disrupts the proper temperature and humidity in the incubator.

We recommend just checking the incubator once a day to see if it?s running properly and only to open it if you have to add some more water to maintain the proper humidity of 44%. If you really want to candle, do so on day 15 while locking down your incubator.

Tip 6: take your time when locking down the incubator

On day 15, you need to lock down the incubator for hatching and adjust its settings slightly. Take your time and do it slowly; as previously mentioned, haste plays no part in raising quail. First, adjust the humidity of the incubator up to 65%. Don?t just add a lot of water at once; add small amounts of warm water until you achieve the correct humidity.

Once it has stabilized, turn the temperature down to around 98 degrees. After everything is stable, carefully remove the eggs from the egg turner and remove the egg turner from the incubator. Line the incubator with gravel paper and place the eggs on their sides on the gravel paper.

Tip 7: buy a reptile heating pad

On day 15, after locking down your incubator, it?s time to set up the brooder. Newly hatched quail need a heat source in their brooder. While it is traditional to use a heat lamp while raising quail, we have found that placing some reptile heating pads set at 100 degrees in one corner of the brooder works very well for raising quail.

We put the pads in the brooder and then cover them and the bottom of the brooder with gravel paper. We use a heat lamp for the first week in another part of the brooder, so there are two warm spots for the chicks.

The reptile mat spot will be at 100 degrees, and we set the center of the heat lamp spot at 105 degrees, which creates a cone of decreasing temperature moving away from the hot center.

The rest of the brooder is unheated, so the chicks can freely move around to whatever temperature they need to feel comfortable. We remove the heat lamp after the first week of brooding and turn the heat mats off around three weeks.

Tip 8: it is ok to give assistance during hatching

Most quail hatch very rapidly. They will make a cut around the top of the egg and then rest for a few minutes, then burst out and go running around. If you notice an egg has been cut or only partially cut, and the chick hasn?t popped out after a few hours, go in and rescue it.

Take a pair of tweezers and very carefully peel the shell and membranes off of the chick. Before we started assisting, we had a 10% survival rate of slow-hatching chicks; after assisting, we hit a 90% survival rate. Sometimes they get trapped in there.

Tip 9: remember, baby quail are tiny

While setting up your brooder, remember that new-hatched quail chicks are incredibly tiny. If you have any openings or cracks in your brooder, they will somehow manage to find them and get out. If they go running around in your cold garage after escaping, they will quickly develop hypothermia and die.

Study your brooder construction carefully before raising quail in it. Some people have successfully raising quail with a brooder made out of a large cardboard box or a plastic storage bin.

It’s also important to remember that while new-hatched quail are incredibly tiny, they also grow at an incredible rate. What looked like a huge brooder on day one may end up being over-crowded by day 10 of brooding. Your brooder needs at least 6 square inches per chick, preferably more.

Tip 10: get a coffee grinder

Baby quail need to eat a high-protein game bird food, preferably around 28 to 30% protein. If you can?t find any locally for raising quail, you can order it. However, these foods usually come in what are called ?crumbles? that are too large for baby quail to eat.

Buy a cheap coffee grinder and grind it up into a powder for the first two weeks of brooding. After that, the quail are large enough to eat the crumbles.

Additional information

Weight 50 g
Dimensions 20 × 10 × 10 cm
No of Eggs

2, 6, 12

Brand

CBBR